There’s a certain trick to looking at an Oliviero Toscani photograph, and the trick is that you can’t just look. You have to react. Your stomach tightens, your pupils constrict, your hands involuntarily curl into little fists of unease or intrigue or outright discomfort. Toscani’s work—if we are willing to call it just that, as… More

So here’s the thing about Alessandro Michele’s aesthetic, and by “aesthetic” I don’t just mean a visual style, a mere parade of fabrics and silhouettes, but rather the whole unwieldy and deeply referential tangle of his Gucci years (2015–2022), an aesthetic that, depending on who you ask, was either (a) a triumph of individualism against… More